balangan beach

Surf life around the globe

/ Alan Kortbaek / 1 Comment

I started surfing about 4 years ago in Honolulu, Hawaii. Since then, this hobby has taught me more about myself than 25 plus years of competitive team sports have. The only pressure to perform here is how well you take your next wave.

Here are some of my favourite surf pictures and stories so far. I´ve been fortunate enough to surf on 4 continents, finding enjoyment in each and every break I´ve dragged my board onto.

Hawaii – where it all began

Mauritius – not the best waves by Le Morne (I had to take a boat out to them and they weren´t anything to shout home about but I did see some dolphins underneath my board and that was unforgettable!

Denmark – Cold, not known for surfing but oh such waves!

Løkken – the beach break closest to my home away from home in Jutland

Cold Hawaii, Klitmøller / Vorupør. My favourite surf spot in Denmark

View this post on Instagram

Boom- we found ourselves back in Cold Hawaii today, as the sunny weather returned. My summer wetsuit doesn't quite hold up in water temperatures under 6 degrees and all the surf rentals were closed so today's trip was a family affair – from the shoreline, observing the surf break I love most in Demmark. There were literallly only a couple of surfers in the water while we were there and it was strange, if not painful, to see just how impacted by the current situation this place is. Anyhow, the fish n chips from the fishmonger by the beach is always great and we were happy to support them. Oh – and those are grains of beach sand you can see in the pics – smacking against my lens – the wind was something else today!

A post shared by ≋ᗩ≋ᒪ≋ᒪ≋ᗩ≋ᑎ≋ ≋K≋O≋ᖇ≋T≋ᗷ≋ᗩ≋E≋K≋ (@kortbaek_travels) on

Indonesia – a surfer´s paradise

Jungut Batu – Nusa Lembongan Island – my favourite surf spot in Indonesia – on a small island with very few cars on it

View this post on Instagram

Nusa Lembongan is one of those islands that has all the things we love packed into a few square kilometres. Nature, surf, great people and laidback vibes. The surf here is consistent – with small to medium breaks that are best in the early hours of the morning. I've enjoyed waking up to them and crafting my skills on longboards but I must admit that i'm increasingly enticed by shorter boards and the better maneuverability they offer, particularly on waves above 5 feet as has been the case on some of the days here. My surf trip here also means I've now had the pleasure of surfing on 4 continents – I'm grateful for the opportunity to practice this hobby 🙏

A post shared by ≋ᗩ≋ᒪ≋ᒪ≋ᗩ≋ᑎ≋ ≋K≋O≋ᖇ≋T≋ᗷ≋ᗩ≋E≋K≋ (@kortbaek_travels) on


View this post on Instagram

And so begins the first day of a week on the little island of Nusa, Lembongan, Indonesia. We started our trip to Indonesia on the island of Bali, where we surfed and hang out on the rugged south coast near Uluwatu, before heading East to the coastal town of Sanur for a couple of days. Sanur definitely has its charms and is a great place when it comes to markets, restaurants and that sort of thing. It's Kuta's younger and more attractive sibling, not that Kuta sets the bar high. Our preferred way to travel is always to visit lesser-known islands around the world and indulge what tends to be a more laidback, less commodified vibe. So far, Nusa Lembongan is just that – we wound our way up the hill from the jetty to our cottage – past verdant hillsides and dreamy shorelines. These surfers showed us how boards are transported around here. It's s pity I prefer longboards – they'd never fit on a scooter.

A post shared by ≋ᗩ≋ᒪ≋ᒪ≋ᗩ≋ᑎ≋ ≋K≋O≋ᖇ≋T≋ᗷ≋ᗩ≋E≋K≋ (@kortbaek_travels) on

Balangan Beach – the first place I surfed in Indonesia. The break is quite a rough one and it´s popular but there´s a laidback feel to life in these parts that I liked

View this post on Instagram

There are many facets to Bali's Balangan Beach. From jaw-dropping vistas of the sunset, to that beautiful surf break (apt for novices as well as more advanced surfers.) You'll find numerous surf schools / board rentals along the beach – many of which are located in the timber warungs (family-owned restaurants,) so you can easily catch a great meal after the surf has pummeled you.) I rolled with the dudes from @westcoastbalisurfschool (thx Didi!) but the guys from @dawnpatrolbali are pretty cool too. At this time of year (the start of January,) I found surfing at high tide on a longer board (personal preference) to be easiest. The waves here break 100-200 metres frm the shoreline, come in thick and fast and roll smoothly for 10-20 metres. There's lots of intense white water though – so prepare to roll and duck a fair bit when paddling out and be aware of the strong shoreline current that'll drift you into the rocks at the right of the beach if you lose your bearings. Beyond the surf (swipe right for photo)- I was sad to see a lot of plastic in the water and on the shoreline. Bali has a severe plastic problem and we need to all make an effort to fix it. My suggestion would be for each surf operator / warung / resort, etc. to have optional packages in their setup in which guests can donate towards or better yet, participate in cleaning up the beach themselves. Plastic is everyone's problem, not just Bali's so let's work together because we need to fix it.

A post shared by ≋ᗩ≋ᒪ≋ᒪ≋ᗩ≋ᑎ≋ ≋K≋O≋ᖇ≋T≋ᗷ≋ᗩ≋E≋K≋ (@kortbaek_travels) on

Batu – Bolong – an easy but crowded break in Canggu, Bali. Truly a surf Mekka