Surf life around the globe

I started surfing about 4 years ago in Honolulu, Hawaii. Since then, this hobby has taught me more about myself than 25 plus years of competitive team sports have. The only pressure to perform here is how well you take your next wave.

Here are some of my favourite surf pictures and stories so far. I´ve been fortunate enough to surf on 4 continents, finding enjoyment in each and every break I´ve dragged my board onto.

Hawaii – where it all began

Mauritius – not the best waves by Le Morne (I had to take a boat out to them and they weren´t anything to shout home about but I did see some dolphins underneath my board and that was unforgettable!

Denmark – Cold, not known for surfing but oh such waves!

Løkken – the beach break closest to my home away from home in Jutland

Cold Hawaii, Klitmøller / Vorupør. My favourite surf spot in Denmark

Indonesia – a surfer´s paradise

Jungut Batu – Nusa Lembongan Island – my favourite surf spot in Indonesia – on a small island with very few cars on it


Balangan Beach – the first place I surfed in Indonesia. The break is quite a rough one and it´s popular but there´s a laidback feel to life in these parts that I liked

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There are many facets to Bali's Balangan Beach. From jaw-dropping vistas of the sunset, to that beautiful surf break (apt for novices as well as more advanced surfers.) You'll find numerous surf schools / board rentals along the beach – many of which are located in the timber warungs (family-owned restaurants,) so you can easily catch a great meal after the surf has pummeled you.) I rolled with the dudes from @westcoastbalisurfschool (thx Didi!) but the guys from @dawnpatrolbali are pretty cool too. At this time of year (the start of January,) I found surfing at high tide on a longer board (personal preference) to be easiest. The waves here break 100-200 metres frm the shoreline, come in thick and fast and roll smoothly for 10-20 metres. There's lots of intense white water though – so prepare to roll and duck a fair bit when paddling out and be aware of the strong shoreline current that'll drift you into the rocks at the right of the beach if you lose your bearings. Beyond the surf (swipe right for photo)- I was sad to see a lot of plastic in the water and on the shoreline. Bali has a severe plastic problem and we need to all make an effort to fix it. My suggestion would be for each surf operator / warung / resort, etc. to have optional packages in their setup in which guests can donate towards or better yet, participate in cleaning up the beach themselves. Plastic is everyone's problem, not just Bali's so let's work together because we need to fix it.

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2020 vision 😎

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Batu – Bolong – an easy but crowded break in Canggu, Bali. Truly a surf Mekka

One thought on “Surf life around the globe

  1. Pingback: Destinations on this site | Kortbæk_Travels

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